The bedding process transfers friction material from the pads into the pores of the brake rotor. It also matches the microscopic contours of the pads and rotors to increase surface contact. Proper bedding of pads & rotors will result in greater performance, longer pad life & less rotor wear. Failure to properly bed in your pads could lead to friction materials chunking and breaking up. This could also lead to overheating your pads and causing them to glaze over resulting in the car not being able to stop or slow fast enough.
If you have had another manufacturer’s brake pads on those same rotors; then you will ABSOLUTELY have to replace or resurface (turn) those rotors before installing Carbotech brake pads.
If the rotors and drums are in relatively good condition, meaning they are smooth, flat, with no visible cracks, deep scoring, distorted, and with no other visible damage; and you’ve only had Carbotech brake pads on them, then they do not have to be resurfaced or replaced as long as they exceed minimum thickness specifications.
New rotors just like new pads need to be bedded in. Brake rotors don’t require as much bedding as brake pads require. If you follow the brake pad bed-in procedure your rotors will be completely bedded. Proper bedding will increase the rotor life and make it more resistant to thermal cracking. By cleaning the disc surface you want to make sure you have completely removed any and all grease, surface residue, and debris that might contaminate or damage the brake pads.
All new brake pads require a bedding process. The proper way to bed your brake pads and brake discs (rotors) is to bed them on the racetrack, NOT on the street. Start this process by pumping your brakes a few times to assure proper installation. Once on track perform several moderate (medium) near stops (to a very slow rolling speed) to thoroughly warm up the pads and rotors. This should take 1-2 laps. This allows a thin layer of the pad material to be transferred into the micro-grooves of the rotor.
After the pads/rotors are warm, perform a series of hard near stops (to a slow rolling speed) until some brake fade is felt. This process should take about 2-4 laps (depending on the track). Once this occurs, then stay off the brakes (as much as possible) and bring your car into the pits/paddock to completely cool. Do not lock the tires during this operation.
Allow brake pads and/or rotors cool down to ambient temperatures; no less than 30 minutes. The total bedding procedure should not take more than 5-6 laps or about 10-15 minutes. Failure to properly bed in your pads could cause friction material to chunk and break up resulting in poor pad performance and pad life. Improper bedding can also lead to overheating your pads and causing them to glaze over, resulting in the car not being able to stop or slow properly.
New discs (rotors) just like pads need to be bedded in. Proper bedding will increase the rotor life and make it more resistant to thermal cracking. Before installing the new brake discs (rotors), be sure to thoroughly clean discs with clean wipes and brake cleaner. By cleaning the disc surface, you want to make sure you have completely removed any and all grease, surface residue, and debris that might contaminate or damage the brake pads. Once the discs (rotors) are installed on the vehicle, they are ready to be bedded.
The process to bed-in new brake rotors is easy, but will require you to log some laps at your local raceway. Start out with several near stops for the first 1-2 laps, while gradually increasing your speed and brake force with every stop. Next, do another 1-2 laps at normal speed followed by a cool down lap. The gray coloration is the pad material depositing a transfer layer of material into the micro-grooves of the disc. This process is pinnacle in achieving the best performance and life out of the rotor. Then allow rotor(s) to completely cool down to ambient temperature.
If you have installed USED brake rotors and they were previously bedded with Carbotech brake pads, then bedding the rotors again is not necessary. If rotors were previously bedded using a different manufacturer’s brake pads; then it is strongly recommended that the used discs (rotors) be reconditioned/turned and meet minimum specification requirements.
Brake pads should be checked regularly. If pads are wearing evenly, then the pads can be used almost down to the backing plate. Also, do not drag your brakes; meaning, do not continually drive around the track with applied pressure to your brake pedal. This does not bed brake pads and/or rotors properly. This can severely hurt the performance and life of your brake pads & rotors. A better plan for building heat during a pace lap is to brake hard and release several times.
Before installing new brake rotors (always install rotors in axle sets), be sure to thoroughly clean the rotors with clean wipes and brake cleaner. Make sure you completely remove any grease, surface residue, and debris that might contaminate or damage the brake pads.
Reconditioning (turning) rotors/drums can leave a lot of metallic debris on the surface which can embed itself into the new brake pads or brake shoes and cause noise and many other problems. Even if the rotors or drums have not been resurfaced, cleaning is strongly recommended to remove dirt and grease. Dirt and grease can contaminate brake pad & brake shoe compounds and cause uneven braking or grabbing.
Whenever you install new brake pads or shoes, be sure to lubricate all metal to metal (i.e. pad backing plates to caliper brackets) with a high temperature grease designed for brake system applications. Please consider your application and the temperature ranges you expect to generate when selecting this lubricant.
A regular checkup is key to maintaining your disc brake system. Follow these steps:
- Flush all old brake fluid out of your vehicles system. Refill your brake system with new (fresh) brake fluid. Select brake fluid based on anticipated brake system temperatures. Brake fluids are rated based on both wet and dry boiling point characteristics. Check for leaks by closely examining the entire brake system. Check fluid level and for fluid leaks on a regular basis.
- Bleed each caliper and check brake pad thickness on a regular basis. Start with the caliper farthest from the Master Cylinder and work your way to the caliper closest. Replace any pads that are worn down below recommended thickness. Check for debris or buildup of any kind in the caliper that could prevent the pads from extending and/or retracting properly. Also check for any burrs or dings on the exposed area of piston to prevent damage of any internal seals during piston retraction.
- Make sure all brake hoses are connected properly to the caliper and are tight enough to prevent separation from the caliper. Check to make sure all bolts and screws are torqued (tightened) properly.
- Regularly check condition of rotor (cracks, deep scoring, odd markings, etc). Make sure rotor is securely attached to the hub, and that the hub is securely attached to the vehicle.
- Make sure all wheels rotate freely.
- Blow away the brake dust with an air hose from time to time.